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CONSTRUCTION

Disney Ariel
Pink Dress

​For this costume, you will require beginner to intermediate experience in sewing.
Difficulty factor 7 - 10

For this our final costume together. We are making a version loosely based on Ariel's pink dress.  But... we are going to "glam it up a bit".
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All videos for making the complete costume can be found in our "video tutorials" link  (to follow)

Please note, that we do not make costumes to order or to hire. These are one off costumes designed for Tracy.


Please use these instructions in conjunction with our videos, as they contain more information on items needed, their sources and technique

Materials

Bum Bag

Scrap of fabric large enough
Ribbon/trim
​Wadding

Cage

2 Metres pink net tulle 150cm wide
(can be purchased from here) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176296658753?var=475798778231
Approximately 15.5m steel boning (I used 10mm wide) This will depend on how many hoops you require.
Approximately 15 metres bias binding to fit your boning width
Scrap of material to make waistband
​Webbing
Hooks and eyes

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Under Petticoat:

26 Metres of 6.5" lace
3 metres of cream cotton
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Over Skirt:

4 Metres Pink satin back Shantung Dupion Faux Silk Fabric.  From Ebay user ID ohsewcraftyltd
​6-7 metres same colour bias binding

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To make bum bag:

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This is unique to the individual, but this is the basic shape I will be using, you will tailor this to suit your shape.  Cut two pieces allowing for seam allowance. So that this did not fray, I over locked all the way around.

My measurements were 24cm across the top and a length of 20cm.

Sew on your trim to one of the pieces, allowing enough to be able to tie it around you.  Sandwich the other piece right side to right side on top of this.

Sew around the edge, leaving the top open, snip the curves, turn the right way out and stuff with your wadding.  This is when you decide how big you want your bum bag to be.  Hand sew the opening.

To make the cage:

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I made up my own pattern for this using a previous cage I had already made, but basically, its a skirt pattern, you decide on the circumference of your finished cage and quarter this measurement, allowing for seam allowances.  The front two sections are identical lengths from the front seam to the side seam.  The back two sections are 7cm longer at the centre back to allow for the bum bag.

To create the longer curve at the back, after cutting two back sections, I then cut two more pieces but 7cm longer all the way across.  I will then cut a curve from the longer pieces. Start the cut on the top far right, finishing at the bottom on the far left, you should now have two pieces with a curve.

The opening for my cage will be at the front.  So sew the two longer curved sections together first, then sew the shorter sections, one on each side.

Sew up the front sections, leaving enough room to get in and out of the cage. My measurement was approximately 20cm from the waist.  Iron the seams flat, then sew down the seam.

Open the skirt out and place a cutting board or something similar underneath one layer. I sewed little blue tabs to mark out measurements for boning channels. First I sew on the very top channel as shown:- This was right at the base of the opening.

I then pinned on a blue tab of scrap bias at the very bottom of the skirt centre front seam,  this was done after finding my measurements.

After pinning and sewing on the first ring of bias at the top, I then measure from the very centre of the very first top ring of bias I have just sewn down. Measure to the centre of the blue tab I attached to the bottom, then divide this measurement by the amount of hoops you want.  I will be having another 5 hoops in my cage, not including the top one. So my full measurements from top bias to centre of bottom bias strip will be divided by 5. On mine the front seam was 69cm's, so I divided that by 5 to get my measurements between each strip. to mark the strips I measured that distance from the centre of each strip again not the very edge, again my video shows this much better.  I pinned on fabric tabs as it is impossible to see marker pen on the net.  I then did the same on the centre back and then the side seams, then I used the same method to fill in the quarter marks. (photo below shows how I measured from the centre width of each  bias strip to space out my markers.

​Take the bias you are going to use and open it out one end and turn in about 1cm's to neaten the edge off.

Then line up the bottom edge of your bias binding up against the top edge of each of the blue tabs all the way around for your second row from the top. Sew into and along the bottom crease as shown.

Now take the top edge of the bias and fold it downwards without stretching it too much. (shown in photo below) open out flat the bottom of the bias but leaving the fold line to be shown for a guide. It depends how wide your boning is as to how wide to make your channels to thread the boning through afterwards.

I then carry on all the way down. using weights to keep the net taught and in place, after each row. To make sure all the tabs line up, I would fold the net in half along the front and back seams and make sure the channels looked symmetrical on both front and back sections as shown below.

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We decided to have a waistband that extended by 5cm (2").Depending on the width of webbing you chose for the waistband, you will need your waist size.  Make sure you have you undergarments on first such as bum bag, corset and cage as this might affect the final measurement. Measure the width of your webbing, add 1.5cm, double this measurement to get the width.  For the length, measure your waist add 1.5cm to one end and 5cm (2") to the other.

Sew the band to the top of the cage and allow 1.5cm overlap.  Place the webbing up against the sewing line (do not go all the way to the end). Turn the bottom up, turn the edge in and fold the fabric over the webbing.

Sew the end closed and hand stitch the band onto the cage.

We sewed on three sets of eyes to allow for adjustment.

Put your boning into the channels, you will need to allow an overlap, this will be taped together

This completes the cage.

To make the under petticoat:-

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This is an almost half circle pattern.  There will be one piece cut on the fold and two halves for the back.  

Sew the seams, remembering to leave a gap of approximately 6-8" for access. At the moment the hem of the petticoat is overlocked.

This is going to be a long narrow waistband which ties at the back. Cut a piece of fabric approximately 5.5cm wide. The length will be the waistband measurement plus extra for tying into a bow.

Working from the centre front and the half way mark for the waistband, pin and sew the waistband on. This is going to be a strap waistband which is much narrower than usual.  The instructions for sewing and turning the waistband are on the video instructions.

The petticoat was shortened to just below the last rung on the cage and overlocked on the hem.

The petticoat will have a split over petticoat (very much like a tudor design). So I first marked the width available to sew on the lace.  I want the lace to be curved upwards at the ends.

Using a handmade pleat turner, first pleat 26 metres of lace!

First layer of lace at the waistband.

Each layer overlaps by 2" (5cm) and finally, the last layer is 2" (5cm) below the petticoat hem.

The bottom layer of lace will continue around the whole petticoat at the hem, so that the petticoat is balanced when worn.  Because the bottom layer curves upwards, we have to drop it down again to the hem. As this will be covered by the over skirt, it won't be noticed.

This completes the petticoat.

To make the overskirt:

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We used exactly the same pattern as the underskirt, the exception is the curved front.  We want the overskirt to be slightly longer so none of the frills can be seen at the hem.

The fabric has a definite nap running left to right, so the front pattern is lined up so that the majority of straight grain is at the front and the diagonal nap is at the side seam.  The back is in two pieces again using the nap of the fabric running through the centre of the pattern. 

Because the fabric has no right or wrong nap, we are able to turn the pieces in the opposite direction to save fabric.

This will have a back opening of approximately 6-8". Sew up the side seams and centre back.

Attach bias binding from the front waist opening all the way around the hem of the skirt.

With the bias right side to right side, sew approximately 4" down from the waist.  You will then sew the bias to the edge of the skirt.

The completed bias sewing.