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CONSTRUCTION

When we first starting making costumes in 2006, we could not have envisaged the journey we would be making.  We have learnt so much, with each costume bringing with it trials and tribulations and if I'm being completely honest, several differences of opinion and tantrums. But we made it through, with the sole aim of creating a near copy of the art we were creating.  Tracy has enjoyed wearing all the costumes and showing them in public.  We have received lots of admiration over the years from people who have seen our work.  We have helped out where we could when people have contacted us for help and advice after seeing our website.  

Over the years, some of our costumes have been sold on to other people who are keeping our legacy going.

What started off as a very nervous mother making that first cut into very expensive silk satin in 2006, we have grown more and more confident with every costume, learnt new skills, from embroidery to embossing, from wig making to decorating shoes.  

This will be the last costume that Tracy and I will make on such a grand scale. No doubt Tracy will still go on to create her own designer dresses and outfits for some time to come.  But as far as collaborating to build works of wonder, this unfortunately will be the last costume that Tracy and I will make.  Ill health over the years has blighted us in various forms and we have always said, that when this becomes a chore or loses its magic, then we would stop.  And although this is possibly the end for us, we sincerely hope that our website will endure and go on to inspire tomorrows artists.

For all those people who have followed us on our website, we wish to thank you all, for your words of encouragement and loyalty.

Thank you for following us

Christine and Tracy

We will end, with a costume that we had already made in 2011, but were never really satisfied with the final result.  So as our swan song, we have created it again, but this time on a bigger and grander scale.

Disney Ariel
Pink Dress

​For this costume, you will require beginner to intermediate experience in sewing.
Difficulty factor 7 - 10

For this our final costume together. We are making a version loosely based on Ariel's pink dress.  But... we are going to "glam it up a bit".
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All videos for making the complete costume can be found in our "video tutorials" link, which are added as each stage is completed.

Please note, that we do not make costumes to order or to hire. These are one off costumes designed for Tracy.


Please use these instructions in conjunction with our videos, as they contain more information on items needed, their sources and technique

Materials

Bum Bag

Scrap of fabric large enough
Ribbon/trim
​Wadding

Cage

2 Metres pink net tulle 150cm wide
(can be purchased from here) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176296658753?var=475798778231
Approximately 15.5m steel boning (I used 10mm wide) This will depend on how many hoops you require.
Approximately 15 metres bias binding to fit your boning width
Scrap of material to make waistband
​Webbing
Hooks and eyes

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Under Petticoat:

26 Metres of 6.5" lace
3 metres of cream cotton fabric
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Over Skirt:

4 Metres x 60" Sangri  satin back Shantung Dupion Faux Silk Fabric.  From Ebay user ID ohsewcraftyltd
​6-7 metres same colour bias binding

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Swags:

​2.5 metres x 60"  candy pink Shantung Dupion Faux Silk Fabric
​4 metres trim
4 metres chain diamante 3mm wide

Bodice:

1 Meter candy pink Shantung Dupion Faux Silk Fabric
1 Meter coutil 
Simplicity 4479
1 meter - 1.5 meters bias to match
Steel straight (80cm) and spring boning (1.80cm) + end caps
2 metres Piping cord
Pink trim
​Chain diamante
Hooks

Going through the ideas stage:

Which involves experimenting with different fabrics and colours.  We don't usually show the "before" ideas, so we thought you might like to see what goes on before a costume is even put together. Our tailors dummy "Betty", has seen us through a good many years and she is very forgiving when putting pins into her.  Tracy would also have tried different shape bodices and several mock ups getting the look and fit right.

Should the skirt be higher or lower? How far should the gap be at the front? How big should the swags be? What type of sleeve works? What colour should each piece be?  Placing and draping fabrics, trying different weights of fabric. Mock up follows mock up until we get a good idea of the final design (and even then ideas change). 

Sometimes it takes weeks to come up with the final design, sourcing fabrics from around the world, only to reject them and try something else. How to overcome a difficult cut and fit, scouring the internet for inspiration.  But the end result is always worth it.

The first picture above, shows the petticoat that we use for one of the Scarlet O'Hara costumes, but it gives a good idea of what frills would look like, or should it be plain. It also shows the outer layer, should it be long or short and how much of the frills should we see. A scrap of material also gives us an idea of the type of swag and how big it should be.  Having made up a bodice from scrap material (picture 2), we can experiment with the type of sleeve.

The picture above shows what the strips down the sleeve could eventually look like, how wide should they be and how long.  The picture on the right shows experimenting with a piece of sari material from Birmingham.  Would it look too fussy and how would it look with trim around the neck line.... and another version of sleeve to consider.

The picture above shows what sort of gap we want at the front, should it have a curve and how long should it be.  Should we show the frills all the way around or hide them away.  The picture on the right shows an experimental swag. How big should it be and how many folds will look right.  At this stage, we have a very good idea of what we want so can start with the basics... this costume will need a bum bag and cage made from scratch.

To make bum bag:

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This is unique to the individual, but this is the basic shape I will be using, you will tailor this to suit your shape.  Cut two pieces allowing for seam allowance. So that this did not fray, I over locked all the way around.

My measurements were 24cm across the top and a length of 20cm.

Sew on your trim to one of the pieces, allowing enough to be able to tie it around you.  Sandwich the other piece right side to right side on top of this.

Sew around the edge, leaving the top open, snip the curves, turn the right way out and stuff with your wadding.  This is when you decide how big you want your bum bag to be.  Hand sew the opening.

To make the cage:

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I made up my own pattern for this using a previous cage I had already made, but basically, its a skirt pattern, you decide on the circumference of your finished cage and quarter this measurement, allowing for seam allowances.  The front two sections are identical lengths from the front seam to the side seam.  The back two sections are 7cm longer at the centre back to allow for the bum bag.

To create the longer curve at the back, after cutting two back sections, I then cut two more pieces but 7cm longer all the way across.  I will then cut a curve from the longer pieces. Start the cut on the top far right, finishing at the bottom on the far left, you should now have two pieces with a curve.

The opening for my cage will be at the front.  So sew the two longer curved sections together first, then sew the shorter sections, one on each side.

Sew up the front sections, leaving enough room to get in and out of the cage. My measurement was approximately 20cm from the waist.  Iron the seams flat, then sew down the seam.

Open the skirt out and place a cutting board or something similar underneath one layer. I sewed little blue tabs to mark out measurements for boning channels. First I sew on the very top channel as shown:- This was right at the base of the opening.

I then pinned on a blue tab of scrap bias at the very bottom of the skirt centre front seam,  this was done after finding my measurements.

After pinning and sewing on the first ring of bias at the top, I then measure from the very centre of the very first top ring of bias I have just sewn down. Measure to the centre of the blue tab I attached to the bottom, then divide this measurement by the amount of hoops you want.  I will be having another 5 hoops in my cage, not including the top one. So my full measurements from top bias to centre of bottom bias strip will be divided by 5. On mine the front seam was 69cm's, so I divided that by 5 to get my measurements between each strip. to mark the strips I measured that distance from the centre of each strip again not the very edge, again my video shows this much better.  I pinned on fabric tabs as it is impossible to see marker pen on the net.  I then did the same on the centre back and then the side seams, then I used the same method to fill in the quarter marks. (photo below shows how I measured from the centre width of each  bias strip to space out my markers.

​Take the bias you are going to use and open it out one end and turn in about 1cm's to neaten the edge off.

Then line up the bottom edge of your bias binding up against the top edge of each of the blue tabs all the way around for your second row from the top. Sew into and along the bottom crease as shown.

Now take the top edge of the bias and fold it downwards without stretching it too much. (shown in photo below) open out flat the bottom of the bias but leaving the fold line to be shown for a guide. It depends how wide your boning is as to how wide to make your channels to thread the boning through afterwards.

I then carry on all the way down. using weights to keep the net taught and in place, after each row. To make sure all the tabs line up, I would fold the net in half along the front and back seams and make sure the channels looked symmetrical on both front and back sections as shown below.

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We decided to have a waistband that extended by 5cm (2").Depending on the width of webbing you chose for the waistband, you will need your waist size.  Make sure you have you undergarments on first such as bum bag, corset and cage as this might affect the final measurement. Measure the width of your webbing, add 1.5cm, double this measurement to get the width.  For the length, measure your waist add 1.5cm to one end and 5cm (2") to the other.

Sew the band to the top of the cage and allow 1.5cm overlap.  Place the webbing up against the sewing line (do not go all the way to the end). Turn the bottom up, turn the edge in and fold the fabric over the webbing.

Sew the end closed and hand stitch the band onto the cage.

We sewed on three sets of eyes to allow for adjustment.

Put your boning into the channels, you will need to allow an overlap, this will be taped together

This completes the cage.

To make the under petticoat:-

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This is an almost half circle pattern.  There will be one piece cut on the fold and two halves for the back.  

Sew the seams, remembering to leave a gap of approximately 6-8" for access. At the moment the hem of the petticoat is overlocked.

This is going to be a long narrow waistband which ties at the back. Cut a piece of fabric approximately 5.5cm wide. The length will be the waistband measurement plus extra for tying into a bow.

Working from the centre front and the half way mark for the waistband, pin and sew the waistband on. This is going to be a strap waistband which is much narrower than usual.  The instructions for sewing and turning the waistband are on the video instructions.

The petticoat was shortened to just below the last rung on the cage and overlocked on the hem.

The petticoat will have a split over petticoat (very much like a tudor design). So I first marked the width available to sew on the lace.  I want the lace to be curved upwards at the ends.

Using a handmade pleat turner, first pleat 26 metres of lace!

First layer of lace at the waistband.

Each layer overlaps by 2" (5cm) and finally, the last layer is 2" (5cm) below the petticoat hem.

The bottom layer of lace will continue around the whole petticoat at the hem, so that the petticoat is balanced when worn.  Because the bottom layer curves upwards, we have to drop it down again to the hem. As this will be covered by the over skirt, it won't be noticed.

This completes the petticoat.

To make the overskirt:

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We used exactly the same pattern as the underskirt, the exception is the curved front.  We want the overskirt to be slightly longer so none of the frills can be seen at the hem.

The fabric has a definite nap running left to right, so the front pattern is lined up so that the majority of straight grain is at the front and the diagonal nap is at the side seam.  The back is in two pieces again using the nap of the fabric running through the centre of the pattern. 

Because the fabric has no right or wrong nap, we are able to turn the pieces in the opposite direction to save fabric.

This will have a back opening of approximately 6-8". Sew up the side seams and centre back.

Attach bias binding from the front waist opening all the way around the hem of the skirt.

With the bias right side to right side, sew approximately 4" down from the waist.  You will then sew the bias to the edge of the skirt.

The completed bias sewing.

Making the swags:

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Having tried several versions and scouring the internet for help on this, we have decided to try this method.  It may not necessarily be right, but it seems to work.  Its starts with what looks like a skirt pattern, the measurements of which are on the video tutorial. We cut two of these.

Down the long sides of the piece, we spent many days working out how best to put pleats in, we decided to use the same idea as our "interview with the Vampire" apron and pleat it down the sides, then twist it so all the pleats are along the top.  The video shows the markings we ended up with and how we put all the pleats along the top of the pattern.   It is far too complicated to explain in words or pictures.

This is what we ended up with with all the swags hanging down.  There was limited space available to do the pleats. Once in place the pleats are sewn down.

I glued down a strip of continuous diamante chain along the middle.

The trim was then sewn onto the edge of the swag, making sure that no diamante were above the seam line for the waistband.

The swags are then sewn onto the top of the skirt, they meet at the middle front and the back opening.  The last bit of diamante is left unglued for now and will be glued later.  This makes it easier to put the waistband under the sewing machine.

The waistband is then sewn on.

A light weight webbing is used inside the waistband.  

The waistband is then turned in at the end and then doubled over and will be hand stitched.  There will be a 2.5cm overlap at one end.

Cut a piece of fabric approximately 4cm longer than the back opening x 10cm wide.  Fold in half and sew a seam along one short side and the longer side, leaving a short side open for now so it can be turned the right way out.  Cut the corners and reduce the seam allowance.  Once turned the right way, close the open end.

This is sewn onto the back opening.

Sew on a pair of hooks and eyes

Because we don't want the front of the petticoat to get swept up by the wind, a fastener was sewn to both sides near the bottom and connected to the under petticoat.

This completes the overskirt and swags.

Bodice:

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These pieces were altered for a fit that I liked. Cut one set of fabric pieces and one set of coutil. After placing the boning channels and boning onto the coutil, each piece is sewn to the other. This is called mounting.

I bought a metre of heavily encrusted sari material from The Silk Factory in Birmingham's Bullring.

I then mounted a piece onto the middle front section.

From the remaining fabric I had, I also sewed the sari appliques to the centre back pieces.

I need to cut a facing piece for the back openings.  I don't want to face the whole of the pieces, only about 2" (5cm).  This is then neatened by over locking and turning once.

The right facing is going to overlap the left side of the bodice, so sew from the point at the bottom the same distance in all the way to the top.  Do not sew across.

The left side facing only needs a 1.5cm sewn seam from top to bottom.  Do not sew across.

Turn and iron both facings flat and whip stitch the facing to the coutil.

Sew the shoulder seams together.

Bias is sewn from the back opening, all the way around to the front opening. Leave a 1.5 - 2cm excess for neatening.

Turn the bias to the inside and hand sew down to the coutil.

At the centre back turn the bias and then sew it down.

Measure around the bottom of the bodice and cut a piece of fabric on the diagonal to fit.  If you cannot do this in one piece, then you will need to join to pieces together.  We have decided to use a contrasting grey fabric and also to make a double piping.

The width of the fabric is 2.1/2 inches (6.5 cm). Using a piping foot turn one side to approximately 1.5 cm and sew in a piece of cord.

Do the same for the other side.

Fold the piece in half and sew this onto the bottom of the bodice. One cord should be just above the other when folded.

Leave enough cord to wrap around to the back of the bodice at both ends.

Try on the bodice and get someone to mark where the overlap will be. This will be your mark to sew the bars.

Start by sewing the hooks on first, these should finish about 1-2 millimeters in from the edge.

Sew the bars to correspond with the hooks. We then used a strip of boxed trim with glued on chain diamante and sewed it to the neck edge of the bodice.

​The bodice so far

Rough sleeve ideas below. This will have a cream sleeve with pink straps and more pink box edging with chain diamante.

Having now a better idea for the final sleeve, we can get a pattern cut. It has been decided that the under fabric should be off white, with a patterned lace over the top.

The lace fabric is first sewn to the under layer to keep it stable as it can be very slippy.

Run a gathering stitch around the top and bottom. The side seam is temporarily put together and the sleeve is fitted into the sleeve for a fitting. The sleeve will then be taken out and the  side opening will then be unpicked ready for the bottom to be gathered to fit the arm.

Now that I'm happy with the fit of the sleeve, I now move onto the strips. Looking at other tutorials on line, this is a basic pattern for the strips, but again, it will depend on how wide you want your strips to be and how long.

Cut two of every strip, sew up the sides and trim.

Turn all the strips the right way out and iron flat.

I have decided to pinch the strips at the middle.  Remember to keep all your strips in the right order.

I then sewed my trim onto the strips top and bottom and cut a catch stitch in the middle to hold it. Trim off any excess.

I then tacked the strips onto the sleeve top and bottom.

Sew bias binding onto the cuff of the sleeve.

Turn the bias inside and sew onto the sleeve. Allow for a "roll" of the fabric so it naturally wants to fall to the inside.

Now pin, tack and sew the sleeve into the bodice.

I am now going to glue a strip of diamante down each strip.

Diamante now finished

Next, we want to create detachable sleeves, the pattern was taken from Elsa's Frozen pattern.  We need one piece of fabric and one piece of cotton liner for each.

Sew along the sleeve head and the "V". Clip the curves and the "v" and turn the right way out.

Fold the sides seams together right side to right side and sew the seam.

Sew 5 snap fasteners around the top of the sleeve and also corresponding fasteners inside the cuff of the sleeve.

This completes the bodice

... and the costume.

We are now waiting for the wig to be made in London.....